Bryce Aime Interview
July 16, 2010
Bryce Aime is quite possibly our favourite designer from this generation. His creativity, design aesthetic and impeccible collections are second to none. I caught up with Bryce and questioned him on everything from London Fashion Week, the Egyptians to Rihanna and the Far East. Read on.
SN: Your latest collection at London Fashion Week, took a large Egyptian influence, talk us through how this came about?
BA: The Egyptian influence just happened, purely by accident. Probably at first it was the architecture. The title Egyptology sums up everything that inspired me from that era, the cut line, the clothes, but instantly I followed what I like. When you look at mummies they have no shoes, so we hid the shoes for the collection, with the platform inside the leggings, so visually there is no distraction from the audience’s point of view. Musically we made it theatrical because of how we perceive things today of how they were back then.
SN: Your show pieces are some of the most extravagant I’ve seen, do you enjoy designing these more than the rest of the collection? Does it enable you to bring your imaginations to life physically?
BA: I enjoy both, because there are two different rewards. First is commercially speaking you have to sell, I’m far from an artist. It has to have the right balance, and then you have the show pieces, the reward is because it is a one off. Everything we do has to work on the shop floor. I think of the way it is going to hang in the shop, it is very important to have this vision, you will find a customer for everything. The showpieces carry the flag even higher, so the two together are very important, like husband and wife, a relationship as such.
SN: The stunning ‘spike dress’ was worn by Rihanna in the music video for her track “Go Hard”. How was it to see your dress in such a surreal enviroment? Did you ever think that dress would end up in the middle of a desert surrounded by tanks?
BA: No one expected that, even today I don’t really think of this, all I want is to build up an archive and 20 years down line do an exhibition. For this piece I’m not too fussy about this, but if it happens I am then very happy.
SN: So, if Stylenoir started an Army, we would commission you for the uniforms of course! Off the top of your head, what would you design for our all women soldiers?
BA: I Wouldn’t go black, because that would be obvious choice. It would be no skirts, all trousers with lots of pockets on fitted jackets. It would be monochrome, but hardly any black, off white, maybe some red pastel. It would be very distinctive. Obviously for the commanders, probably you, I would design something very special.
SN: Your designs have a painstaking attention to detail, and always feature exquisite fabrics and materials, is this something that you set out to achieve originally or something that has emerged over time of you designing?
BA: I’m always a bit of a control freak, so naturally I will go to the smallest detail. But you can’t do that technically 100%, so I am just enough of being into the detail because unfortunately only the very few can recognise or enjoy this. At the end of the day, you like what you like, but as a rule, as a package there has to be balance.
SN: Is there a particular type of woman your collections and designs are created for?
BA: Its funny because I had this question for a book coming out soon. I don’t design for a women, I have an idea what should be a woman, she is a fictional woman, she is not from here. It is always a good starting point to re-invent her wardrobe, what would she be doing at this point in her life? It’s not a silhouette, its the way she would react, the smells she likes, the colour she likes, how she would treat her girlfriend or boyfriend. So the result makes almost like a perfect woman, but no one is perfect, so when you think like that it is the end of the season because it is done. Like when you watch a movie, you see a guy, you might want to be like them, walk like them, talk like them. But you have to find out who you are, it is always a ping pong effect. That’s life, life is about being someone you’re not at one occasion. The cherry on the cake is there is two seasons a year, so that’s where you can reinvent yourself because you are never really the same.
SN: Is there anything in particular that is inspiring you right now?
BA: What as we speak? [laughs] probably Asia, China and the Far East.
SN: Can you give us any insights or sneak peaks of what we can expect from you for Spring Summer 11?
BA: It is going to be about China and Japan, originally Bejing. I Saw a very old theatre play named Kabuki when I was in Bejing and I also saw some Bejing Opera. There is some war going on there, a tension, very peaceful but a lot of tension. The army is everywhere in China. Also for once I’m going to try and not use black, at all. Very subtle, like a line here and there. It is challenging not to use black, but I will be happy to see the result, it will be very powerful with colours. The showpieces will, I hope, be something interesting and challenging.
For more on Bryce Aime and his incredible designs, visit The Bryce Aime Website