Monarchy: Fyodor Golan Interview

Image courtesy of Trace Publicity

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By James Joseph

Underground Shoes

Looking back to our second ever print issue, we interviewed fashion designers Fyodor Golan on their latest endeavours. Suzie Street caught up with them below:

Fyodor Golan are two of the most talented fashion designers in the industry. Their technical skill is exquisite and their signature designing by narrative creates beautiful results.

Firstly lets talk about the new collection – what were your main inspirations?
S/S 14 Electric Children was inspired by looking back on our childhoods. We are children of the 90’s so there is a dazed feeling in the collection. We wanted to create an urban sporty tribe. We were watching documentaries on Las Pozas in Mexico created by Edward James so we imagining our collection there, fused into exoticism of the rural nature. Sportiness came from our everyday walk over the waterloo bridge looking at the runners and bikers, it grew organically into our process as we never before explored this side of us.

This collection compared to the last embodied more femininity where would you say this touch has come from?
It’s about natural instinct. The collection has more girly elements. We have heard some people describing it as ‘paradisiacal’. It’s certainly light, bright and younger but it also has sexual undertones through the artificiality of the colours and textures. There are many splashes of pure expressiveness like our splash print, which we created by covering our entire studio in canvases and splashing pure soft colours all over them. It created energy in the collection and gave a contrast between pretty and undertone of dark sexuality.

Do you have a favourite piece from the collection? Are there any that nearly didn’t make it?
There were few that did not make it, it’s an issue we have every season making more then we can showcase… We love the bright yellow pieces, feathers, splashes and FG’s sweats (that we wear constantly).

Do you have an ultimate favourite piece from all your collections?
Maybe the scared leather gown from our first a/w 11 collection.. It was a last minute addition to the collection and it is always traveling or being part of an exhibition.

What do you do to survive the weeks leading up to fashion week? Any interesting habits or rituals that have been established over the years?
Golan’s mum always gives us holistic therapy the day before the show, when she arrives.

Your known to create a narrative or story that the collection stems from beginning to finish, what was the catalyst to this way of designing?
It creates content to the garments. What would I do in these clothes? There is a dialogue between the wearer and the item. We live through these narratives and there is little part of us in each garment. In a way, we leave something behind and move on to next season.

For the AW13 collection ‘Belle De Jour‘ take us through the narrative for readers that won’t have known this.
It was about discovering and living through secret desires. Discovering ones sexuality and exploring in secret, as in Severine, played by Catherine Deneuve in the film ‘Belle De Jour‘. Starting with black and white looks and growing into arousing bright oranges and intimate floral motives.

Do you often look to other cultures and artwork to inspire your collections?
We work a lot with different cultures and traditions through fabrications, and embroideries through to concepts. It is something that is close to us and our backgrounds have a very strong presence in our brand DNA. It has raw human quality and instinct, and has very strong points and meanings.

Are there any cultures that you are fascinated in that may make an appearance in future collections?
We have just come back from traveling through Asia and we have finally visited Myanmar after a long time of wanting to visit. You won’t need to wait long to see it through our eyes.

Do you have a dream client that you would love to have dressed from the past?
Marilyn Monroe, Elizabeth Taylor, Elizabeth I and Esther from the Old Testament.

Would you ever consider a detour into the world of menswear?
It’s definitely in the cards….

And one just for fun – what is your favourite conspiracy theory?
Don’t know about favourite, but as we both grew up on Gianni Versace’s incredible fashion legacy, we often wonder about the numerous theories behind his murder…

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For more information visit: www.fyodorgolan.com

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